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Dining review
Tequila sets mood at Saylor's in Sausalito
Leslie Harlib, Marin Independent Journal
11/23/2006

The main problem with Saylor's South of the Border is that the bar's too good. In a county where most of our Mexican restaurants only operate with beer and wine licenses, chef/owner Sean Saylor went the distance to make the lineup of drinks at least as important as the food. Maybe even more so.

For starters, there are more than 100 tequilas available. The bar turns out delicious margaritas made from scratch with assorted tequilas that range from basic ($6.95) to high-end Cabo Wabo Anejo ($10.25). This one seduced with a smoky, silky aftertaste that shone through fresh lime juice, syrup and a whisper of orange liqueur.

I worry about who in your party is going to be the designated driver. Choose one before you come to dine. Otherwise plan to spend the night in Sausalito, because it's too tempting to want to work through some of Saylor's tequila assortment. Saylor's South, which opened in early September, is pretty. What used to be the old Guernica for more than 25 years has been completely overhauled. The dark Spanish-influenced environment is now a bright, lively room filled with talavera tile accents in planters, wall fixtures and trim. Walls are painted the color of lemons and mango, and the floors are covered in large umber Saltillo tiles shiny with glaze.

Against the window, you'll find cushioned booths, the most comfortable places to sit. The middle of the restaurant is all tables and chairs. Upstairs, a private dining space called the Cabo Wabo Room can hold up to 40. Rock star Sammy Hagar has donated some of his memorabilia to decorate this rentable space. The background sound is cheery Mexican mariachi music, which I found heavy-handed, volume-wise. As the restaurant filled up, the music sunk to barely audible, dampened by the hubbub of voices. When packed, I would imagine this restaurant gets extremely loud. Even half full, as it was on a recent Wednesday night, I could feel the hum.

You can also dine in the bar, visible across a divider from the main room. The bar's focal point is a stone wall, tall stools and tables, blue art glass lighting and a short counter with more stools. It's an upbeat place to hang out and have a snack with a drink, though full meals are available as well. Nearly the same menu is available for lunch and dinner. At lunch the portions are a little smaller, the prices a little less. A few egg dishes, such as Mexican scramble ($8.95) and Machaca ($9.95) - braised beef with eggs, tortillas, beans and red sauce - are only available for lunch. There are plenty of starters, which I found appealing. I could have made a meal just of these.

My favorite was Mexican popcorn shrimp ($10.95). Small round prawns were expertly, greaselessly fried in a lightly bubbled batter that gave their surfaces the look of popcorn. With only the slightest zing of spicing in the batter, they were fine as is, maybe jazzed with a squirt of lemon or lime. However, if you want more spice, they come with a chipotle-flavored tartar sauce that had its own sting. Sopes ($7.95), rich and so dense I could imagine a hit man tying one around his victim's ankle to sink him the Sea of Cortez, came two to an order. Their cornmeal crusts held a brick-hued paste of chopped chorizo and potatoes (sort of like Mexican sloppy joes) topped with shredded iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, refried beans and nuggets of queso fresco. If you are ravenous, these'll more than hold you.

One of the lightest choices is a Caesar salad with Mexican accents ($8.95 large, $5.95 small). Even the small was enough for two, and I loved the flavors, though in temperature it was way too cold, maybe fresh from the fridge. Chopped romaine leaves were delicately coated in a tangy dressing light on egg, heavier on garlic. Ancho chili-dusted croutons offered more flavor than a typical crouton, adding punch and pep to the lettuce. Queso fresco cheese crumbs garnished with more subtlety than traditional parmesan. Of the main courses, we tried roasted mahi mahi ($16.95). The fish was as simple a dish as I'd expect to find on the waterfront in Puerto Vallarta. It was all about the fresh flavor of this steaky cut, baked just until tender but still rife with juice. Served over a musky black bean and fresh corn salsa, with tomato-tinged uninspired rice and chopped greens in vinaigrette, it was satisfying, if not exciting.

I wish there had been a lot more sauce with the chicken mole ($16.95). Half a small chicken was painted with a tawny sauce that, as I chewed, showcased hints of chocolate, fruit, chile, tomato, garlic and onion. It was luscious; there just wasn't enough of it. Like the mahi, the chicken was perfectly cooked, with both dark and light meat moist and flavorful. This dish was paired with good, fresh-tasting refried beans, more of that basic rice and salad.

Other dishes: Braised pork with red sauce, rice, beans and salad ($15.95); Snapper Veracruz, grilled with salsa fresca, onions, tomatoes and peppers, served with beans, rice and salad ($15.95); Poblano chilis rellenos stuffed with ground beef, queso fresco, red sauce, rice beans and salad ($16.95). The menu acknowledges what most Americans have come to expect from a Mexican restaurant by offering enchiladas, fish tacos, assorted quesadillas, nachos and taquitos. There's a burrito of the day special as well.

I was impressed with our service. We were waited on by a warm, lively Mexican gentleman. He was clearly experienced, knew the menu well and took his time to discuss various dishes with us and offer his opinions.

Desserts are a refreshing change from the average Mexican restaurant: there are at least eight. Bananas borracho ($5.95) - drunken bananas - were fun and filling. Slices of banana were caramelized to a mahogany brown with almond-flavored tequila and sugar, then topped with two scoops of vanilla bean ice cream. It reminded me of a Mexican version of bananas Foster.

Less successful, though I liked the idea of it, was Kahlua flan ($5.95). In texture it was on the rubbery side, with not enough distinct liqueur flavor to make up for the fact that it lacked the traditional egg custard flan's roasted nut-colored caramel syrup - for many people, the syrup's the best part.

Because Saylor's South of the Border is only two months old, I took some of the disappointments in our meal with a rim of margarita salt. Saylor's a good chef, and a successful restaurateur. With time, I expect this will become one of the best Mexican restaurants in Marin. It's already a winner in terms of atmosphere and bar.

REVIEW
Saylor's South of the Border
Address: 2009 Bridgeway, Sausalito Phone: 332-1512
Web site: www.saylorssouth.com
Cuisine: Mexican
Service: Good, professional
Noise level: Extremely loud when full
Recommended dishes: Mexican popcorn shrimp, roasted mahi mahi, chicken mole, bananas borracho
Liquor selection: Full bar, 100 plus tequilas, good list of beers, limited wine
Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: Yes
Parking: Street parking Wheelchair access: Yes
Credit cards: All except Discover
Summary: One of Marin's newest Mexican restaurants is also one of its most attractive. Saylor's South of the Border, which opened in September, is a handsome eatery, with a stone-walled bar, bright colors, Mexican talavera accents and a menu of classic Mexican dishes with a few specials. The margaritas, made from scratch with top-notch tequilas, are among the best in Marin.

Leslie Harlib's Cuisine Scene
A little ole in Sausalito
Leslie Harlib
August 8, 2006, Marin Independent Journal (San Rafael, CA)

In Sausalito, Sean Saylor, who has owned and headed the kitchens at Saylor's Landing on Harbor Drive for seven-and-a-half years, is opening a new Mexican restaurant — Saylor's South of the Border at 2009 Bridgeway. The space was formerly Guernica for nearly 30 years.

Saylor bought the restaurant in January and has been going through nearly nine months of remodeling and planning. "It's worse than having a baby. There's been a lot of work to do there," he says. "It's a pretty complete remodel, with paint, tile, new booths, chairs and fixtures." He hopes to open within a month.

With a self-confessed passion for Mexican food, Saylor plans to offer more than just Mexican dishes. He is most excited about the 100 tequilas, ranging from basic to high-end anejos — typically five years old — he plans to carry. "We're going to try to be the first tequila bar in Marin," Saylor says. "I would like it to be kind of casual and family-oriented. But as far as cuisine goes, it will be quality."

Like Saylor's Landing, Saylor's South will emphasize seafood in season, such as Dungeness crab, but served in various Mexican preparations. Expect to find standards — such as carne asada, burritos, enchiladas, sopes (a tortilla cup filled with layers of meat, beans and cheeses) — and creative fare. His version of chili relleno won't be battered, for instance. "It's a roasted chili filled with seafood and smoked cheese, with both red and green salsas."

Appetizers will start at $6.95 and no entree will top $19. But the big draw, he thinks, will be tequilas. "I think there's a trend going on right now," he says. "Tequilas are getting a lot better. They're being aged better, and they're coming out cleaner, more pure. I think tequilas are taking over where scotch as been for so long."

SAYLOR'S LANDING
City Guide, 2006
Restaurants

Located on Sausalito's "other" waterfront, just north of the downtown promenade, Saylor's Landing is the kind of restaurant we love to find when we travel. With a weathered wood exterior, fireplaces to warm the chilly nights, and nautical memorabilia, it has a relaxed, comfortable ambience. Add a friendly bar, an eclectic crowd of locals, and sailors who've come in off the bay, and you have a dining spot with a great sense of place.

Award-winning chef Sean Saylor has crafted a California-cuisine menu that spotlights fresh seafood, steak, chops, chicken, and innovative pastas. For starters, try the deep-fried calamari, barbecued local oysters, or the absolutely divine wild mushroom bruschetta, a creative leap from the standard tomato-and-basil version. Entrées include petrale sole dressed with lemon butter and bay shrimp; an immensely popular grilled New York steak; and specials such as corned beef with a tangy mustard sauce, and, our choice, lobster ravioli topped with rock shrimp, tomatoes, mushrooms, and spinach.

Their desserts hit all the "hot buttons": crème brûlée, mud pie, bread pudding, tiramisu. But our downfall was the chocolate sour cream cake with caramel sauce-don't pass it up!